This is a unique garden offering something new to engage the eye at every twist and turn. Matt McMahon, owner of McMahon Earth Solutions, designed the one-of-kind garden drawing inspiration from the owners of the acreage property. “They wanted an outdoor space they could meander through, and they wanted to be able to sit and relax in the garden, gathering with friends and family around a fire pit,” explains Matt.

Matt surveyed the tapered corner of the sprawling site where the garden was to go, contemplated the flat, sparsely turfed expanse and the ideas began to flow. He conceived a design he describes as “industrial and arid juxtaposed with natural appeal and a hint of subtropical elements”.

He imagined a circular fire pit area defined by a curved wall of stone embracing a Corten steel fire bowl, all set within a grassy knoll. He pictured winding paths of lush green grass, feature boulders, eye-catching plantings, and raised garden beds fashioned out of stone that would give the space depth.

He also envisioned the use of sculpture. For something striking that would add a dash of drama and give a nod to the home’s location in the rural town of Yandina Creek on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast, Matt installed a large sculpture of a bull. For something fun but of a smaller scale, he installed a cactus sculpture. Both are fashioned out of Corten steel in reference to the fire pit.

The path and garden edging is also of Corten steel, with the rust finish of the metal working in harmony with the blonde granite which has been used liberally throughout the landscape in the form of feature boulders and large stone retaining walls.

“The granite boulders and walling create the structural backbone of the garden and the stone texture perfectly complements the metal art and edging featured within the landscape,” says Matt.

Natural stone also makes an appearance in the guise of the random bluestone steppers placed at the entry to the garden and the bluestone crazy paving installed in the sunken fire pit area.

The stone and metal materials are softened by the turf mounds behind the fire pit. For these mounds, Matt chose Sir Grange Zoysia grass, a fine-leafed, dark green turf. Feature plantings include Cyathea cooperi (Australian tree fern) and the hero planting, placed right in the middle of the garden, is a five-metre-high Brachyton rupestris (bottle tree).

For more information

McMahon Earth Solutions

The post Utterly unique appeared first on Completehome.

Words Jennifer Stackhouse

Part of the huge daisy family, echinacea is a herbaceous perennial from the prairies of North America’s Midwest that flowers for many months through autumn.

The rosette of hairy leaves produces tall stems of mauve, pink or white flowers — such as in the variety ‘Swan Lake’ — but what makes it distinctive and ideal to mass-plant in a sunny garden is the prominent dome of black and gold stamens in the centre of the flower.

‘Magnus Superior’ is a variety that has large mauve flowers and a prominent boss of golden stamens.

As well as the widely grown Echinacea purpurea, there are other species including E. angustifolia and E. pallida.

In recent years, new and colourful varieties have been released including ‘Watermelon Sugar’, which has bright-pink double flowers.

In cold areas, seed pods persist for many months, adding interest to the winter garden.

Medicinal and other benefits

While echinacea is a beautiful addition to the garden it also has traditional medicinal uses, including the treatment of respiratory problems.

It’s best known for its ability to boost the immune system and perhaps reduce the duration of colds and sniffles (although research on this is inconclusive). It has also been shown to have antiviral and anti-inflammatory uses and can be applied to the skin as a cream to reduce eczema.

All parts of the plant have medicinal properties, including polysaccharides, glycoproteins, alkamides, volatile oils and flavonoids. The upper part of the plant is used to extract the polysaccharides that are said to reduce cold symptoms.

Preparations containing all three species of Echinacea are available commercially as herbal teas, tablets, ointments and the like.

It’s worth noting, however, that some people are allergic to echinacea and it shouldn’t be taken for more than a week.

The flowers with their prominent cones of stamens also attract beneficial insects, particularly pollinators, and can be picked for autumnal flower arrangements.

Grow your own

Echinacea grows in all but hot, humid settings but is best in temperate climates. Plant in a sunny spot in well-drained soil. Plants die down in winter when they are cut back but reappear in spring.

Once established, it’s low care and drought tolerant but new plantings, especially if the weather is warm and dry, should be kept watered.

In winter or early spring, cut the plant down to ground level to make way for new growth.

Availability

Look for echinacea in the perennial section of your local garden centre, especially in autumn, or search online for suppliers. It can also be grown easily from seed sown in autumn
or spring.

Organic plants are available by mail order from Mud Brick Cottage and Diggers Club, which offer named varieties.

Echinacea label

Common names: Echinacea, purple coneflower, hedgehog coneflower
Botanical name: Echinacea purpurea
Family: Asteraceae (daisy family)
Aspect & soil: Sun; well-drained soil
Best climate: Cool, Mediterranean, temperate, subtropical
Habit: Perennial
Propagation: Seed, potted plant, division of existing clump
Difficulty: Easy

The post Prairie flower appeared first on Completehome.

Words Chloe Thomson

If life isn’t giving you lemons, it’s probably because you don’t have a backyard lemon tree — so this is your cue to plant one. Now!

It doesn’t need to take over your whole backyard; you can grow a productive lemon tree in a big pot.

If you choose the right variety for your location and climate, a homegrown tree will provide you with year-round fruit and beautifully fragrant blossoms.

You’ll have lemons on hand for zesty dressings, tangy desserts or a classic gin and tonic whenever you need one.

Planting and care

Lemon trees love a sunny spot with at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. This is where a large pot (40–50cm wide and deep) is ideal because you can find the sunniest spot, even if it’s on paving.

If you’re planting in the ground, a lemon tree prefers a well-drained, slightly acidic soil that’s been enriched with organic matter.

If you’ve got really heavy soil or poor drainage consider a raised garden bed or container instead.

When growing in a large pot, choose a dwarf lemon tree and look for a potting mix that’s either organic or specific to citrus trees.

Full-sized lemon trees can reach up to 4–5m tall and 2–3m wide, so allow space if you choose a non-dwarf variety.

Care tips

• Once planted, your lemon tree will need regular watering so the soil is consistently moist, especially during flowering and fruiting. Deep waterings will encourage strong root growth and a good layer of mulch around the drip line of the tree will help prevent the topsoil from drying out too quickly.
• Fertilise your lemon tree with an organic potassium-rich fertiliser in early spring, midsummer and again in autumn. If your plant shows signs of nutrient deficiency such as yellowing or mottled leaves, look for a complete macro- and micro-nutrient fertiliser and apply as per the label.
• Prune regularly to keep your tree to the desired shape, removing any dead or disease-damaged wood as you go. To improve airflow and reduce pest or fungal infestations, it’s a good idea to prune to open up the centre of the tree. Lemon trees can handle a very hard prune or skeleton prune if needed, but it will impact fruit development for a year or two afterwards.
• Common lemon-tree pests include aphids and scale, which love soft new growth. Encourage beneficial insects such as ladybirds, lacewings and parasitic wasps by planting plenty of flowering plants nearby. If necessary, control aphids and scale using a petroleum-free, organic pest oil such as eco-oil or eco-pyrethrum PLUS.
• Citrus gall wasp is another pest that infests the stems of lemon trees and causes swollen galls, which can really weaken young trees. See last issue for more detail on gall wasp.

Harvesting and storing

Lemons typically ripen 6–9 months after forming and a mature lemon will feel firm and have a vibrant yellow skin.

I prefer to cut lemons from the tree to preserve a little bit of stalk — that way you don’t rip a hole in the skin and the harvested lemon will keep longer.
It’s best to leave lemons on your tree until you’re ready to use them or pick a few each week for use.

If you do need to pick a lot at once and you end up with a glut, you can grate the zest and freeze it in small ice-cube trays. You can squeeze juice into ice-cube trays for freezing as well.

Other uses include lemon butter and lemon curd, preserved lemons, lemonade and even cleaning products.

Varieties to try

‘Bush Lemon’ A naturalised lemon that grows wild in subtropical regions, this hardy plant with thick-skinned fruit grows to around 4m tall in a sunny spot.

‘Eureka’ A classic year-round harvester with minimal seeds and a thin rind, perfect for juicing, this tree also tends to be relatively thornless.

‘Lemonade’ Super-sweet and juicy, this one’s fruit can be eaten straight off the tree. Thorny.

‘Lisbon’ Another thorny variety, this variety thrives in cooler climates and produces high yields.

‘Meyer’ produces sweeter, less acidic fruit. Naturally smaller than ‘Eureka’ or ‘Lisbon’, it can also be bought on super-dwarfing rootstock so is ideal in pots or for smaller gardens.

• Remember: All these varieties can be found grafted on to dwarfing rootstock.

Lemon label

Common name: Lemon
Botanical name: Citrus × limon
Family: Rutaceae
Aspect & soil: Sunny, sheltered; well-drained soil
Best climate: Temperate to tropical
Habit: Small evergreen tree
Propagation: Budding
Difficulty: Moderate

The post The Citrusiest of the Citrus appeared first on Completehome.

Words Jennifer Stackhouse

By autumn, pumpkin vines are likely to have sprawled over every available space and are probably considering scaling the fence, while the yellow female flowers on each trailing arm will have swollen to form small pumpkins.

The vines don’t realise they’ve done enough and need to concentrate on growing bigger fruit — they just keep on sprawling and flowering until the weather turns cold.

Pumpkins can spread 3–7m from their starting point, especially if growing in rich soil with plenty of sunshine.

If your vine is sporting fruit, pinch out the growing tip to encourage the vine to stop spreading and concentrate its energy into growing bigger pumpkins while the weather is still warm.

If space is tight, pumpkins can be trained to grow vertically — for example, on a wire frame, fence or other support. The vine will hang on using its tendrils.

If any tying is needed, use very soft ties. Also, support the developing fruit by using a sling made from an old stocking — or repurpose a macrame-style holder as a hanging basket.

Keep pumpkin vines growing strongly with regular watering, especially if the weather is hot and dry.

They’ll keep growing until the first frost, which will kill off all the growth, leaving the pumpkins standing out among the dying stems.

Harvesting and storing

Pumpkins are ready to harvest in late autumn, usually four to five months after planting.

By this stage the fruit is large and heavy. Depending on the variety, pumpkins can weigh between 2kg and 9kg with small varieties coming in at just 80–200g.

Skin colour may change as the pumpkin ripens but, as many pumpkins are green when ripe, colour isn’t always the best way to gauge ripeness.

If the pumpkin looks like it’s ready to harvest, test it by rapping on its skin with your knuckles. A pumpkin that’s ready to harvest should sound drummy (hollow). If the pumpkin isn’t ready, leave it to keep maturing.

Fruits may be attacked by rodents, especially mice, which gnaw on the skin and can damage the fruit so it can’t be stored. To keep mice away, make a protective cage or enclosure around plants.

If the soil is wet in autumn when pumpkins are still on the vine, slip a flat stone or tile under the fruit to keep the skin from touching the wet ground and perhaps rotting.

To harvest the pumpkin, cut it from the vine but leave a piece of stem attached. This stops the fruit from rotting when stored — and pumpkins are well suited to storing.

To make sure they last through winter, allow the skin to “cure” or harden in the sun for a week or so. Undamaged pumpkins can be stored in a cool, airy spot for several months.

Check stored fruit regularly, monitoring for rot or damage (caused, for example, by rodents). Don’t store pumpkins with damaged skin — these should be used up quickly.

Celebrating Autumn

As pumpkins are naturally ready to harvest in late autumn, they have become associated with Halloween celebrations in the Northern Hemisphere.

Jack-o’-lanterns are hollowed-out pumpkins with their orange skins carved into scary faces lit from within by candles.

The pumpkins used for carving are large, soft-skinned varieties that don’t make good eating and are grown mainly for stock feed; Australian pumpkins tend to be thick-skinned and not suited to carving or hollowing out.

While we don’t celebrate Halloween in autumn in Australia, pumpkins — even uncarved — are highly ornamental for autumn parties such as harvest feasts.

Pumpkin label

Common name: Pumpkin, winter squash
Botanical name: Cucurbita maxima
Family: Cucurbitaceae
Aspect & soil: Sun; deep, moist, fertile soil
Best climate: All, but in cold areas grow in the warmest part of the year
Habit: Annual vine
Propagation: Seed, seedling
Difficulty: Easy

Image credit: Kerry Boyne, Shutterstock

The post Pick of the Patch appeared first on Completehome.

Words Jennifer Stackhouse

Every year in mid-autumn, large bags of leaves would turn up stacked in our garage, raked up from beneath the large oak trees in a friend’s garden.

It may seem an odd gift, but my mother’s garden lacked deciduous trees, so she missed out on nature’s valuable annual offering.

When she mentioned it to her friend, who had more leaves than they could manage, the annual gift started to arrive.

The leaves went into a leaf bin to break down into leaf mould and top up the compost, to be used as mulch straight onto the garden.

The autumn leaves that fall from deciduous trees such as oak, elm, maple, liquidambar and birch are not just colourful but filled with nutrients.

In natural woodlands, leaves fall to the forest floor to form a leafy mulch cover which, as it breaks down, feeds the soil and the organisms that live in it. It also promotes the soil’s moisture-holding capacity.

Bag your own

If you already have deciduous trees in your garden or on the street, don’t let the leaves go to waste — and certainly don’t burn them, as people did in the past.

Leaves can be left under trees to break down naturally but, if they fall on lawns, gravel or paving, rake them up and bag them or toss them into a homemade leaf bin to slowly break down.
Large leaves such as those from liquidambar or sycamore can be put through a mulcher or mowed to reduce their size.

Later in the year, use the decomposed leaves as mulch on the garden or add it to soil or potting mix.

Availability

To add a deciduous tree to your garden, select a tree that’s a suitable size and plant it with enough space to grow upwards and across.

Deciduous trees are sold bare rooted in autumn and winter.

Make a simple leaf bin

Simply wrap chicken wire around three or four stakes pushed into the soil. An ideal size is around 60cm in diameter and a metre or so high. Locate the bin in an out-of-the-way spot and fill it with leaves. Moisten the leaves if they’re dry and add a little lime to assist the breakdown.

Leaves can also be stored in a garbage bag (put some holes in the base of the bag). Expect breakdown to take six months or more.

The post Gold rush appeared first on Completehome.

Unsure about where your garden beds finish and the grass starts? Is your veggie patch less productive than you would like? Does your garden lack definition and a sense of taking you on a journey as you move from one section to another?

If so, Shapescaper’s modular range of steel garden edging and planters can provide a solution for each of these problems, as well as a whole host of other design and layout issues typically encountered in residential and commercial landscapes. Edging and planter systems are a simple and effective way to create a framework for your garden that helps to highlight the colours and textures of your planting palette, but there are many more benefits than you might at first realise.

Definition and dimension

Steel garden edging is most commonly used to define pathways and separate lawn areas from garden beds, paving, driveways and more. Depending on the design of your garden, contour-hugging curves or clean, straight edges can be easily achieved, adding further definition and providing a unifying theme as you move around your outdoor spaces.

Higher profile steel edging can also be used around and within a garden bed to help define and separate different planting styles. Or you can use the edging to fashion elevated areas to create a tiered effect.

Better growing conditions

Installing raised steel garden edging and planters is one of the easiest ways to instantly improve growing conditions for your plants. Top-soil preservation, mulch retention, and root barrier control are just some of the benefits Shapescaper products bring. They can also help to control water flow while promoting free drainage, which is a boon in a wide range of applications, from growing edible plants to cultivating flowers for cutting.

More design flexibility

Shapescaper is available in nine profile heights, ranging from 75mm through to 800mm, which facilitates a high degree of design flexibility. The options are legion, from the creation of intricate curved areas to the construction of steps, and right through to the formation of large terraced spaces that help add a real sense of adventure and intrigue to a landscape.

While the Redcor Bluescope steel used by Shapescaper looks amazing once it has fully weathered and developed that classic “rust” patina, products are also available in a traditional Galvanised finish. This has a shiny, spangled appearance which dulls to a lovely, neutral matt  grey that blends beautifully into the garden, allowing the plants — and garden lines — to take centre stage.

Less maintenance

Steel edging is, by its very nature, extremely sturdy, which means line trimmers and other garden tools can be safely used around it without risking damage to the edging.

Aside from helping to make general garden maintenance easier, over its lifespan steel edging can be seen as an investment, saving you both time and money in the long term. It out performs most other edging solutions, such as timber or plastic, it requires minimal care, and is guaranteed to give a minimum of 10 years of service, even in the most demanding environments.

Mixing and matching

The modular nature of the Shapescaper range means that a garden design can be completed in stages or adapted as the need — or desire — demands. You can start off using small elements that, over time, can be easily expanded into a complex tapestry of interconnected elements — whether curves, straight lines or both — that help tie the various areas of the landscape together to create aesthetic harmony.

Setting boundaries

The benefits, however, extend beyond aesthetics when the edging is incorporated into a design as a barrier. Such a barrier effectively prevents root invasion while maintaining clear boundaries between different garden elements; it also significantly reduces garden maintenance.

This makes it particularly valuable in commercial applications where long-term durability and low maintenance are vital.

Adaptability and longevity

In addition to its stunning good looks, what sets Shapescaper apart is its unique combination of flexibility and strength. The high-grade steel construction ensures longevity, while its clever design allows for easy manipulation to create both straight lines and graceful curves. This adaptability makes it an ideal choice for projects of any design or scale, from smaller residential gardens undertaken as a DIY project to expansive commercial landscapes.

The professionals’ choice

Professional landscapers especially appreciate Shapescaper’s time-saving, highly efficient installation process. The system’s interlocking components and straightforward method of assembly significantly reduce project completion times without compromising on quality. This efficiency translates directly to cost savings for landscapers and homeowners. For installation instructions or to find the location of your closest Shapescaper retail outlet, visit the Shapescaper website.

For more information

Shapescaper

Phone (03) 8799 2406

The post Get the edge appeared first on Completehome.

Words & photos Angelo Eliades

As the growing season ends, fruiting crops may reach their full size but remain unripe, leaving gardeners uncertain about whether to harvest. Some crops can ripen after being picked, while others cannot — but knowing which is which can be a challenge.

By understanding which fruits, vegetables and berries fall into each category, and with some knowledge of the basic science of ripening, gardeners can make informed harvest decisions to maximise yield and avoid unnecessary effort on crops that won’t ripen further.

What happens during fruit ripening?

Botanically, fruiting crops — unlike root, stem or leaf crops — are plants cultivated for their edible fruits, which develop from the fertilised ovary of a flower and house seeds for reproduction.

These crops include fleshy fruits such as cucumbers and apples, true berries such as blueberries and tomatoes, and seed-bearing pods such as beans and peas.

In their early developmental stages, green, unripe fruits grow by accumulating water and nutrients. Once they reach sufficient size, the ripening process begins, marked by changes such as colour development, softening, conversion of starches into sugars and the enhancement of flavour and aroma.

These transformations make the fruit more palatable and nutritious for human consumption while also increasing its appeal to animals, which aids in seed dispersal and ensures the continuation of the plant’s lifecycle.

The two primary processes associated with fruit ripening are respiration and ethylene production.

Respiration is the metabolic process whereby fruits convert stored sugars and starches into energy, consuming oxygen and releasing carbon dioxide (CO2) and water. This energy drives the biochemical changes that alter colour, texture, flavour and aroma during ripening. The respiration rate differs across fruit types.

Ethylene (C2H4) is a gaseous plant hormone that plays a crucial role in initiating and regulating the ripening process in many fruits.

Fruiting crops are divided into two main categories: climacteric and non-climacteric, based on the differences in their ripening physiology, particularly how they mature and whether they produce ethylene gas to regulate the ripening process.

Ripening in climacteric fruits

Climacteric fruits are unique in that they can be harvested when mature but not fully ripe, continuing to ripen off the plant.

During ripening, their respiration rate and ethylene production rise significantly in the early stages before tapering off as ripening concludes.

These fruits produce ethylene gas, which accelerates respiration and hastens the ripening process. Ethylene also activates enzymes that

• degrade chlorophyll, changing the fruit’s colour
• break down cell walls to soften the texture, and
• convert organic acids and starches into sugars, enhancing sweetness.

This self-ripening ability is highly valuable commercially, allowing growers to harvest fruits while still firm and unripe, thus reducing bruising during transport and extending their storage life.

The fruits can then be artificially ripened with ethylene gas before being sold to consumers.

Examples of climacteric fruits include apples, apricots, avocados, bananas, blueberries, cherimoyas, figs, honeydew melons, kiwifruit, mangoes, nectarines, papaya, peaches, pears, persimmons, plums, quinces, rockmelons and tomatoes.

Climacteric fruits continue to ripen at room temperature, becoming sweeter and softer. Peaches, nectarines and plums taste best when juicy and soft, bananas when yellow with brown speckles and rockmelons when slightly soft.

However, these fruits must reach physiological maturity (not necessarily full size) to produce ethylene and ripen fully. For example, tomatoes harvested at the first visible signs of colour change, known as the breaker stage, can continue ripening indoors.

If climacteric fruits are harvested too early, their ability to produce and respond to ethylene is compromised, leading to incomplete ripening.

They may still soften or change colour to some extent but fail to develop proper flavour, texture or aroma, resulting in crunchy peaches, starchy bananas and bland tomatoes.

Harvesting at the right time is essential.

1. Allow strawberries to reach full ripeness for optimum flavour

2. Place bananas in a closed paper bag with some apples to ripen them indoors

3. Goldfinger bananas saved from early winter cold and ripened in the kitchen

4. Wait till the stems dry before harvesting pumpkins

5. Citrus are non-climacteric and need to ripen on the tree, but can remain there for weeks

6. The whole hand of green bananas can be cut when the sharp ridges become more rounded

Ripening in non-climacteric fruits

Non-climacteric fruits, in contrast, need to be left on the plant to ripen fully. Once removed, they won’t continue to mature, sweeten or improve in flavour as post-harvest changes are minimal.

During ripening, these fruits do not rely on ethylene to mature and their respiration rate remains steady or gradually declines during ripening.

Ripening in non-climacteric fruits depends on external factors such as temperature and light while the fruit remains attached to the plant.

These fruits typically ripen and mature simultaneously, so they must be harvested at peak ripeness for optimal quality. For example, pumpkins are ready for harvest when their stems are dry and hard and their skins lose their shine, signalling maturity.

Examples of non-climacteric fruits include blackberries, capsicums, cherries, chillies, citrus, cucumbers, eggplants, grapes, pineapples, pomegranates, pumpkins, raspberries, squash, strawberries, watermelons and zucchini.

Ethylene and its impact on crop storage

Understanding the ripening process is crucial to extending the storage life of produce and reducing food waste.

Climacteric fruits emit ethylene gas as they ripen, which can adversely affect ethylene-sensitive crops.

There are quite a few crops that are highly sensitive to ethylene exposure. These include asparagus, green beans, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, capsicums, carrots, celery, chillies, cucumbers, eggplant, endives, leeks, lettuce, okra, peas (in pods), raspberries, spinach, squash and sweet potatoes.

When stored alongside high ethylene-producing crops such as apples, apricots, avocados, cherimoyas, nectarines, papaya, pears and ripe tomatoes, ethylene-sensitive produce is at risk of spoilage.

Damaged, bruised or punctured fruits release even greater amounts of ethylene, further accelerating the ripening and deterioration of ethylene-sensitive crops nearby.

For example, storing broccoli, kale, or spinach in the same refrigerator bin as apples can cause these vegetables to yellow and rot within a few days. Cabbage and Brussels sprouts may yellow, crack, or sprout prematurely, while carrots can develop a bitter taste due to ethylene-induced isocoumarin production.

Cucumbers also deteriorate more quickly in the presence of ethylene. Other ethylene-sensitive crops may deteriorate in different ways.

By understanding the physiological differences between climacteric and non-climacteric crops, gardeners can make informed decisions about harvesting and storage, ensuring optimal quality and yields while minimising waste and getting the most out of every harvest.

The post How Crops Ripen appeared first on Completehome.

There are many edging products on the market and a short amount of homework will quickly lead to some obvious conclusions. Plastic is hopeless, it neither lasts long in the ground or stays still. Wood looks good for a short time but is open to rot or termite damage, it is also difficult to bend into curves. Which leaves steel – durable, versatile and long lasting.

Mild steel garden edging works well in all soils, it is easy to bend to any shape and will last for generations. An edge should give the impression that the devoted garden owner has leapt out of bed every single day of the year and enthusiastically wielded the shovel or edger to maintain that perfect border.

EverEdge flexible steel garden edging is perfectly suited to all landscaping projects whatever their size. Made from 1.6 mm mild steel (90% recycled) it is quick and simple to install – just hammered directly into the ground using the spikes that are part of the metre lengths – there are no extra pins, pegs or joiners. It is simple to form any curve or angle by hand with EverEdge , no special tools are needed. EverEdge will also maintain a perfect straight line, since the end of each metre length is slightly offset it means that the next piece slots in completely flush.

EverEdge flexible steel garden edging is perfectly suited to all landscaping projects whatever their size. Made from 1.6 mm mild steel (90% recycled) it is quick and simple to install – just hammered directly into the ground using the spikes that are part of the metre lengths – there are no extra pins, pegs or joiners. It is simple to form any curve or angle by hand with EverEdge , no special tools are needed. EverEdge will also maintain a perfect straight line, since the end of each metre length is slightly offset it means that the next piece slots in completely flush.

EverEdge is available in two different finishes – galvanised and powder coated in black or brown and also in Cor-Ten (the steel that forms the rust finish). In the galvanised and powder coated finish it is available in four different depths – 75 mm, 100 mm, 125 mm and 150 mm. In the Cor-Ten it is available in three different depths – 100 mm, 125 mm and 150 mm. The smaller depths are generally used to edge paths or driveways (where no grass is involved) whilst the larger depths are used for edging lawns and flower beds particularly where grass runners are involved – when 30 mm of the actual edge as well as the spikes is hammered into the ground its creates an effective barrier that will stop the runners invading paths or garden beds.

The galvanised and powder coated finish is very unobtrusive and gives the impression the soil is holding a nice neat edge. The Cor-Ten makes more of a feature of the edging. Cor-Ten steel is designed to rust and it takes about five weeks to form this finish (starting out as a dull silver colour). Once the rust finish has formed the process stabilises and the steel will not change further or deteriorate into a pile of flakes. Cor-Ten steel will also not leach onto white pebbles or pavers.

EverEdge is also available in pre curved rings. Two pieces makes a circle of 600mm diameter and three pieces makes a circle of 900mm diameter. The 900mm diameter curved pieces can also be expanded to make a 1200mm diameter circle (four pieces) or a 1500mm diameter circle (five pieces).

EverEdge garden rings can be used to make a circular edge around trees, statues, water features and garden beds. The rings prevent grass runners invading the area around a tree or shrub; they keep in mulch and provide protection from mowing damage and soil compaction around the roots. The lengths are simply joined together using the coach bolts provided which are then inserted through the pre-drilled holes.

When edging lawn to either garden beds or paths or pavers, it is recommended that the edging is installed so the top of the edging is at the bottom of the blade of grass (so the grass is higher when it meets the other elements). In this way the edging can be mown over. If, where the two meet, the edging is higher then it is not possible to mow right next to the edge so whipper snipping is required. Although EverEdge will not be damaged by whipper snipping, it just adds an extra job to the gardening list.

For more information

EverEdge is available Australia wide via local stockists or through the online shop. All details on the website.

The post Edging Forever appeared first on Completehome.

The system provides multiple benefits, including reduced reliance on mains water, long-term cost savings on water bills, and environmental advantages through better natural resource management and reduced stormwater runoff. The RainBank system is versatile, suitable for toilet flushing, garden irrigation, laundry, and agricultural uses.

Installation is straightforward, with surface-mounted or submersible pump options available. The system features built-in dual check valves for backflow prevention, complying with AS/NZS 3500-1 standards, and includes feedback lights to indicate water source and fault alerts.

Made in Australia since the early 2000s, Davey’s RainBank system was among the first to receive Australian Design Awards. The system adds value to properties while offering a sustainable water management solution. For plumbers, recommending the RainBank system provides clients with a reliable, locally-made product that addresses modern water management challenges while delivering long-term benefits.

For more information:

Davey

The post Rainwater Harvesting: The Benefits of Installing a Rainwater Harvesting Device on your Property appeared first on Completehome.

Living in the picturesque suburb of Matcham on the Central Coast of NSW, David and Justine have created their dream home and sanctuary—but maintaining their large property, while juggling a thriving business, was taking its toll. With a lush green lawn always in mind, the Mikkelsens decided to explore a solution to keep their property looking its best without the hassle.

The Mikkelsen Family’s Search for the Perfect Lawn Care Solution

The Mikkelsens first heard about Husqvarna Automower® robotic mowers from Verduous Gardens. According to David, “We were looking for something that could take the hassle out of mowing and allow us to enjoy our property more. Verduous Gardens suggested trying a robotic mower, and we were immediately interested.”

The couple initially installed one Husqvarna Automower® on their property, and within a month, they noticed a remarkable difference. “I could see how amazing the lawn looked out the back,” David recalls. “That’s when we decided to add a second mower around the dam area to tackle that part of the property too. The time-saving aspect was huge for us—we could enjoy the space instead of feeling like it was a constant chore.”

The Benefits of Adding a Third Husqvarna Automower®

Soon enough, the Mikkelsens added a third mower to their property: the Husqvarna Automower® 450X NERA with EPOS. Unlike previous models that required installing physical wires around obstacles, the 450X Nera with EPOS introduced a revolutionary wire-free solution, allowing the family to create virtual stay-out zones around objects using the Automower® Connect app.

“We can now easily adjust and manage the mowers with the app,” David shares. “It’s a game-changer. In winter, we only run it every couple of days, but in summer, we set it to mow every day. The lawn never gets brown because it’s constantly being cut, and the clippings naturally fertilize the grass.”

Dan Barton, Operations Manager at Verduous Gardens, says, “Object Detection and Avoidance is a game-changer for residential lawns. If kids leave toys or furniture out on the grass, the mower can seamlessly navigate around these obstacles and continue mowing efficiently without interruption. It’s a huge convenience for homeowners.”

Convenience, Quiet Operation, and No Maintenance

What really impressed Justine about the Husqvarna Automower® was its quiet operation. “I love the fact that it’s so silent,” she says. “We no longer have to deal with the noise pollution from a loud ride-on mower. Robotic Mowers get the job done quietly and efficiently.”

David adds, “The best part is that it takes care of itself. It recharges itself automatically and we don’t have to worry about any maintenance. It’s one less thing to think about in our busy lives.”

A Lawn That’s Always Picture-Perfect

David and Justine agree that one of the most satisfying aspects of having the three Husqvarna robotic mowers is the beautifully manicured lawn it provides every day. “David loves the special patterns the 450X NERA creates in the lawn,” Justine says. “He’s always showing me the new designs it leaves behind, and it makes the lawn look sleek and well-maintained.”

As a family, they now spend more time enjoying their beautiful property. “We often sit back, have a glass of wine, and just take in the view,” David adds. “It makes me proud to see how great the lawn looks without any of the hard work.”

Standing Behind the Husqvarna Brand

David and Justine also appreciate the exceptional customer service and support they’ve received from Husqvarna. “Every time we’ve needed anything, Husqvarna has always stood behind their products,” David says. “That’s why we trust the brand.”

A New Level of Freedom for the Mikkelsen Family

With their Husqvarna Automower® robots in action, the Mikkelsens have more free time to focus on what really matters. As Dan Barton, Operations Manager from Verduous Gardens, explains, “The mowers have really freed up the Mikkelsens’ time. As a gardener, I can focus on more detailed work while the mowers handle the lawn care. It’s also given the family more time to relax and enjoy their property.”

Why David and Justine Give Husqvarna Automower® Five Stars

David is unequivocal when it comes to rating their experience with the Husqvarna Automower®: “I would definitely rate it five stars. The lawn looks amazing, and I don’t have to do anything about it. It’s made life so much easier for us.”

Justine agrees, “It’s just awesome. The mowers take care of everything, and we get to enjoy our lawn without any of the hard work.”

If you’re looking for a smarter, easier way to maintain your lawn and make your life a little simpler, just like the Mikkelsen family, discover the power and convenience of Husqvarna Automower® today.

Book a Husqvarna Automower® Consult today!

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