Words Steve McGrane

Pomegranate, from the Latin for “seeded apple”, lends its name to the military hand grenade and it really is a taste explosion. Originating from the Middle East way back when, the red fruit has low care requirements and unique health benefits — not to mention its scintillating flavour and the fact that it’s simply beautiful to look at.

Yet it’s expensive in supermarkets and often imported, thus incurring high food miles. So why not grow your own?

Growing

Pomegranates grow well in a variety of soils, from high sand content (although additional organic matter and fertiliser will assist in the quality and volume of fruit) to clay soils. The desirable pH range is 5.5 to 7.2.

Find a sunny spot in the garden — or grow in a pot. As it’s a deciduous plant (especially in cool climates) with self-pollinating varieties (see list), multiple plants will always improve
pollination rates.

Shield young plants from severe sun and wind as their underdeveloped root systems struggle in high temperatures. Cover or plant as an understorey.

Conversely, a pomegranate dormant in winter can survive on very little water.

Choose a spot with good drainage, although pomegranates can handle some waterlogging. A gentle slope or mound assists with drainage.

Dig a hole twice as deep as the root ball and three times as wide: this pays dividends later.

Before planting, improve the soil with copious amounts of organic matter such as well-rotted manure and compost.

Improve drainage in heavy clay with the addition of gypsum — about two cups per square metre, avoiding contact with the roots.

Actually, gypsum can be added regardless of soil type as the sulphur in it benefits growth.

Consider adding about one-third by volume of coarse river sand to further improve drainage around the root ball, if required.

Press down on the soil around the newly planted pomegranate to ensure large air pockets are removed. Water in well with a seaweed-based product to reduce transplant shock. Add mulch to suppress weeds and retain moisture, and keep moist for the first two weeks.

I prefer compost to sugarcane for mulching as compost adds nutrients and microbiology to the soil while allowing water to infiltrate effectively.

Once planted, stake plants with three supports or a tree guard for the first three to four years. This allows plants to move with the breeze and encourage a strong root system while being supported.

Fertilising and pest control

Add organic fruit fertiliser in spring and autumn with larger volumes in spring.

Sprinkle a cup of organic blood and bone (or an organic liquid fertiliser) every 6–10 weeks (longer intervals in winter).

Apply a foliar spray of trace elements in spring and autumn to improve floral blooms and fruit set in spring.

Net or bag fruit to protect from fruit fly. Use neem oil for all other pests such as aphids and scale.

Apply as required in late winter or early spring as a preventative.

Harvesting

The most common question about pomegranates is how to tell when they’re ripe.

The ripening process is influenced by the seasons. In warmer years, you may find they ripen earlier and vice versa. Hence, pomegranates can be ready for harvest between March through to May depending on varieties.

The best indicator is when fruit turns deep red or orange.

Remember that they do not ripen after picking — but sometimes, in the event of excessive rain, you may be forced to pick early to avoid splitting. Dry summers produce the best fruit.

Use sharp secateurs to cut the fruits from the tree to avoid damaging skins.

Selecting a pomegranate

You can source either bare-rooted plants (in bags with no soil) from late autumn to spring in nurseries or potted plants during the warmer months.

Ensure the original soil height found in the pot is maintained when planting out and never plant in the heat of summer.

A dwarf or grafted variety of pomegranate is bested suited to a pot.

Ensure the pot has good drainage and a minimum of 50cm wide and the same depth.

Varieties

‘Wonderful’ is a large, deep purple-red fruit with crimson flesh. Very sweet with soft seeds, it’s good for juicing and eating. Ripens in spring.

‘Azerbaijani’ or ‘Gulosha Azerbaijani’ produces medium to large very juicy fruit with a pinkish hue.

‘Elche’ has great flavour and high antioxidant, vitamin and mineral content. Dwarf Pomegranate ‘Parfianka’ is a naturally dwarfing early-season variety with bright-red fruit and small edible seeds chosen for superior taste. Crops at a young age. Grows up to 3m but with pruning can be kept to 2m. ‘Ben Hur’ Developed for the home garden, it produces large, sweet and juicy fruit to 1.5kg. Suitable for temperate to tropical climates.

‘Red Velvet’ Self-fertile with dark-pink to red skin and red flesh.

Pomegranates range in price from $20 to $100 depending on size and type.

Prunning

Before planting your pomegranate, reduce the branch structure to the strongest three to five upright branches.

Remove growth below the graft (maintain this practice each year). Lightly tip prune each year after harvesting, keeping the mature branch growth for next year’s fruit.

Avoid hedge pruning as it encourages small fruit. Pomegranates only grow on the previous year’s wood growth (second-year wood), hence regular pruning (eg hedging) impedes fruit production.

Pomegranate label

Common name: Pomegranate
Scientific name: Punica granatum
Family: Lythraceae
Aspect & soil: Full sun, well-drained soil
Habit: Deciduous to semi-deciduous shrub/small tree
Propagation: Seed, suckers, tip cutting
Difficulty: Easy

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01. Where is the best place to plant blueberries?

For best results, select a site for your blueberry plants that has full sun most of the day. For climates with high summer temperatures with multiple days over 38°C keeping the plants watered well and hydrated will help the plant withstand these hot temperatures.

For best results PlantNet recommends that blueberries be grown in a pot or tub (50 cm minimum diameter) as this gives you more control over the pH and provides good drainage to help control potential root disease often found in garden soil. Don’t use black coloured pots as these heat up in the sun which will be detrimental to the plants root system.

02. How to plant blueberry plants

Remove the blueberry plant from the original pot you purchased it in within two weeks from purchase. For the most optimum potting mix for your blueberry, combine 50% coarse pine bark (20 – 25mm in size) with 50% of a premium quality Camellia/Azalea potting mix. This provides a well aerated potting mix which will extend the life of your blueberry in a pot considerably. A 5- 10 mm layer of fine gravel added to the bottom of the pot to assist with drainage is a good idea. Do not tease the roots of the plant before planting as this will severely affect the plants establishment. When transferring your newly purchased blueberry into a larger pot ensure the top of the potting mix remains at the level it was at in the pot you are moving it from. Add a layer of pine bark to the top of the pot to protect the surface roots and minimise moisture loss from the potting mix.

Why blueberries need premium potting mix? 

Premium potting mixes are the first choice when you want the very best for your plants. They have a greater water-holding capacity, contain added nitrogen and other plant nutrients, and remain at peak performance for longer than cheaper alternatives. They are a worthwhile investment, especially for those superior plants you need to keep looking spectacular as decorative and fruiting specimens. Premium potting mixes are marked on the bag by Red Standards Marks ‘ticks’.

While blueberries require a pH of 5.0 – 5.5, most Camellia/Azalea potting mixes are already in this range; however, it is a good idea to check it anyway. A pH soil test kit purchased from your nearest garden centre or hardware store is easy to use and is ideal for checking soil pH over your entire garden area. Add a good quality 3-month slow-release fertiliser to your potting mix and mix in well if it is not included in the potting mix purchased. PlantNet recommends these potting mixes above to help keep the pH low/acid and to provide a well-drained and open potting mix for good blueberry root development. Blueberries produce masses of fine roots which mat together when growing well. Without a well-aerated potting mix (using pine bark), all blueberry varieties may only have a life of around 2 years in pots. This premium potting mix and pine bark combination should extend the plant’s life.

03. Fertilising blueberries

One common error when planting out new Blueberries is adding fertiliser straight away. It is highly recommended that you do not fertilise your new Blueberries or put fertiliser in the hole around the root zone as it can burn the roots. This goes for some organic fertilisers also. Wait 2- 3 weeks before fertilising after planting. The pH should be maintained between 5.0-5.5.

Note: All fertiliser products will have a nutrient analysis on the back of the bag which shows percentages of nutrients. It is important to read this information before purchasing fertiliser of any type.

Fertilisers should be applied evenly across the top of the pot or root zone.

For a great guide on fertilising Blueberries in pots in the home garden based on trial work completed by PlantNet over 3 years. CLICK HERE

04. Watering blueberries

As the potting mix is free draining, in warm weather plants should be watered every 2 days or more frequently if required until water just drains out of the pot base. In hot summers large established plants will require watering everyday (keeping the plants watered well will help the plant withstand hot temperatures). Do not over water in cooler conditions!

Avoid watering plants over their foliage as this will help promote conditions for fungal leaf diseases (Foliar fertilizing while the flowers and fruit are present is the only exception)

05. Common blueberry pests and diseases

All blueberry varieties are susceptible to fungal leaf diseases (particularly blueberry rust) under high humidity and high rainfall. Apply a good fungicide for protection. We recommend Copper Hydroxide (product names include Kocide or Blueshield). Do not wait for leaf damage to occur before spraying, as protection is better than cure. Monitor for scale insects (the first sign is ants on the bush as they foster scales). Pour a small amount of soapy water onto the affected area and control ants. Check for caterpillar damage regularly and control it when necessary. Queensland Fruit Fly can also be a problem in warmer Spring/Summer climates of QLD and NSW.

Learn more about common fruit tree pests

Birds and flying foxes: Cover the plants with netting as soon as young berries appear on the bush.

Blueberry Burst and Blueberry Kisses are evergreen blueberry varieties. A good, strong, healthy plant with foliage free from disease is very important in achieving beautiful large fruit. Do not allow plants to lose their leaves from poor nutrition or disease.

Following the directions above, you will have a delicious supply of healthy blueberries.

06. How to prune a blueberry bush

Blueberry Kisses has a different growth habit to Blueberry Burst from the beginning and the bush is not as compact as Blueberry Burst in the first year. If Blueberry Kisses sends a shoot up one side of the plant which potentially looks like it will overtake the bush in the first year this shoot should be pruned back level with the rest of the bush. This will make the bush more compact.

Blueberry Burst and Blueberry Kisses pruning can begin at the end of the first 12 months if plants have established well, as soon as fruiting is finished for the season. Generally, all the old spent fruiting wood is removed which on average will reduce the plant size each year by about 50% and then the plant will re-establish through the growing season. For visual learners, you can find our Blueberry Burst pruning video and Blueberry Kisses pruning video by visiting this page.

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Before you start – do you have:

• A sunny spot with at least 6 hours of sun each day, every season?
• Access to water?

If you have both, your backyard is suitable for growing fruit trees – these are the two fundamentals everyone must have in order to grow fruit trees! We recommend all home gardeners purchase dwarf fruit trees – these are easier to manage, grow full sized fruit, and can be grown in pots or in the garden. From here, you need to make choices related to your climate. Find your climate zone below for our list of suggestions!

All climates, all backyards:

Blueberries, Lemon Heaven, Maestro Mandarin®, Midnight/Red Velvet Pomegranates, and Sweet Temptation Fig. These are ESSENTIALS for a potted orchard, and are available online (except our citrus, which are available seasonally in many garden centres). The only factor you may have to be cautious of is frost. Regular frosts don’t agree with these varieties, however, there are ways around this – using greenhouses over winter, or simply pulling your potted plants under trees or undercover will significantly help! Thanks to the smaller size of all varieties (particularly when you purchase dwarf citrus!), and the potential to prune them back even further (which is how you can maintain the pomegranates in a smaller space), it’s quite easy to erect a structure to protect them.

Blueberry Burst® and Blueberry Kisses® are staples for the Aussie home garden – growing across the country with success!

Subtropical and Tropical:

In the PlantNet® range, the above suggestions are the most suitable for smaller subtropical spaces. Other suitable varieties are our Sunset Super Dwarf Nectarine and Peach! These will only ever grow to 1.5m high and 1.0m wide – but they can take a while to get there. For stone fruit lovers, these are the perfect introduction to stone fruit in a potted orchard. They are super easy to maintain, and the stunning pink flowers in spring followed by deep red leaves in summer is addictive!

For larger backyards, we recommend our one exception to the dwarf recommendation – and that is our members of our Tropical Sensations range, which are full sized stone fruit trees. You can keep them pruned back to control their size; however, they will almost always outgrow a pot! One option is to espalier them if you have a permanent small space. These 6 varieties have exceptional fruit, ripe for picking in November/December, and great for lunch boxes!

Delight-Ful Peach is a member of the PlantNet® Tropical Sensations® range – and as the name suggests, it produces delightful fruit!

Cool temperate:

Virtually anything in our Backyard Beauties® range will be suitable for your situation. From all the previously mentioned varieties to our super dwarf apples, pears, and stone fruit, they will work for you!

For areas with severe frosts, avoid stone fruit unless you have a protected area or greenhouse where you can keep your trees over winter. Areas with occasional frosts are suited to all these varieties. Cherries may still be suited to your area provided you don’t receive regular late frosts.

Apple, pear, and plum varieties will almost all require a pollination partner. Keep this in mind if you have a limited space and would like to have a diverse range of fruit.

In a 2m² space, you can easily fit 2 pears and a blueberry! In a 4m², you could increase it to 2 super dwarf apples, 2 blueberries, and a Sweet Temptation Fig. This would give you fruit for much of the year with the right conditions!

Dwarf Sir Don® Cherries are beautiful dark, sweet cherries. Cherry trees do best in cool

Warm temperate:

Again, virtually anything in our Backyard Beauties® range will be suitable for your situation. Without severe and regular frosts, stone fruit will thrive in your area! Apples and pears will also do very well in your climate. You can save space by selecting self-pollinating varieties, for example in a small space you could have one dwarf peach, a dwarf apricot, a dwarf plumcot (which tastes like a plum but can be pollinated by apricots!), and dwarf self-pollinating almond! You could make a unique statement by planting all these varieties in a group of matching pots along a wall or atop of a low brick fence for a Mediterranean feel.

Pinkabelle® apple trees perform well in cool and warm temperate areas.

Where to buy them 

Most varieties are available online during winter at: www.plantnet.com.au

Dwarf apples, pears, stone fruit, and our flowering peaches are all available to order NOW. This includes our NEW Summer Crunch dwarf pear range. These are delivered straight to your door – get in quick!

Other varieties are available from retail stockists – make sure you call your favourite garden centre to check stock levels before making the trip!

For more information on growing and caring for fruit trees, visit our Plant Care page for the best advice available.

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We all love a beautiful garden. Being in nature helps us relax and unwind, while the action of gardening improves physical health and mental wellbeing. A garden is the perfect space for families to play, not to mention the family pet. You can grow your own vegetables for healthy meals and plant lovely flowers to cut and enjoy in vases indoors. Plus, a private garden is the ideal spot for yoga or meditation. In short, a garden gives back tenfold. The only problem for some of us is keeping it alive. This is where Earthlife steps in.

An Australian-owned company based in Toowoomba in Queensland, Earthlife manufactures a range of microbial mineral-based soil conditioners and fertilisers for gardening, horticulture and agriculture. A business founded on passion for the land and soil, Earthlife is dedicated to bringing simple solutions to market that improve soil quality and help your garden grow. With evidence-based product development, their products will significantly improve water retention and mineral balance in soils for fuss-free garden maintenance, or those that need some tender loving care.

Because Australian soils have a tendency to be depleted of natural minerals and plants need up to 60 different elements to be healthy, adding back nutrients is vital. The other part of the story is that the soil biology — the bacteria, fungi and associated organisms that work symbiotically with plants — are also being lost, yet many gardening products forget this important aspect of soil health.

Earthlife’s extensive research and development program found that, in order to restore the balance, the best and simple gardening solution is to increase the mineral and microbial balance in affected soils, which improves soil structure and water retention, while the best natural plant food and soil conditioner is humates (organic plant matter). The company was able to successfully blend the required minerals, biology and humates into a comprehensive range of products that are so easy to use, you’ll forget you’re gardening.

For the home gardener, there is one product in particular that you’ll want to keep on-hand. Garden Mate is a fast-acting clay breaker with no need to dig it in — just add water. It rapidly breaks the hydrophobic crust, allowing water penetration while also improving the water-holding capacity of the soil. The high levels of silica in the product make it extremely effective at opening up all types of compacted soils, without risk of harm to your plants if you use too much.

Safe for people, pets and your garden, Garden Mate is a 100 per cent natural garden soil and plant conditioner containing over 60 mineral elements including rare earths and plant-available silica, natural rock phosphate, and over 30 beneficial microbe and fungi species. Suitable for organic gardeners, this is a safe and all-natural alternative to gypsum, lime and dolomite, with a lot more bang for your buck.

Improvements can be seen in just two to three weeks after proper application, and for best results it is recommended that the initial application be repeated after four to six weeks, with a lighter application three to four months later. What you will end up with is a softer soil with improved drainage, aeration and nutrient content in a very short period of time. By increasing the mineral content of the soil, it means plants become more robust and better able to withstand future adverse weather events.

Its sister product, Vegie Mate, promotes healthier vegetables and herbs that are more able to withstand adverse conditions, and to resist pests and diseases as well as improve post-harvest shelf life. Suitable for new and existing vegetable gardens, it encourages earthworm activity and discourages nematodes. Like Garden Mate, it is suitable for organic gardens and can be spread over the soil, including existing vegetables, and simply watered into the ground. The product is recommended for use every six to eight weeks for leaf vegetables, or three to four weeks for fruiting vegetables. Earthlife also stocks excellent products dedicated to flowers, fruit trees and lawn.

Visit the Earthlife website to find out more about their incredible products and order some for your garden. Delivery is Australia-wide.

For more information, 

Earthlife 

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Thanks to today’s designs of contained garden beds, you can turn any outdoor space (think lawn, deck, balcony, driveway or rooftop) into an edible oasis. With a range of helpful features available such as wicking systems, canopies, stands and various sizes to choose from, you can grow your food anywhere, no matter your green thumb ability!

Location, Location, Location

From acreage to a small balcony space, you no longer need to dig up your ground to produce a veggie patch. When selecting a suitable spot for your contained garden, the most important factor is sun. We suggest a minimum of four to five hours of direct sunlight for vegetable growing. If you’re feeling a little less lucky with sunlight, try shade-loving plants like mint, parsley and some other hardy culinary herbs. Also, keep you edible garden as close to your kitchen as possible for easy access.

Raised beds all the way

Avoid setting up a bed where you must fill a ridiculous amount of soil to raise the surface. All you need is about one foot depth of soil. Find a container bed that is raised to true waist height with a sturdy stand, like the Vegepod. No more bending or getting on your knees. You can also find stands with trolley wheels to transform your garden into a portable one.

Install a wicking bed

Wicking beds are an age-old technology but are now becoming popular in mainstream gardening. It’s the perfect system for busy people! A wicking bed waters from below, rather than just above. Like the wicking reservoir in a Vegepod, soil soaks up water from the below reservoirs to dry areas, allowing the plants to self-water. With a wicking bed, you only need to water once every few weeks when your plants are established.

Get the right mix

With any food growing, the type of soil used is one of the most crucial elements to a successful edible garden. Thanks to a contained and wicking garden bed, the nutrients of your soil don’t flush out as quickly compared to an inground garden. We suggest certified premium-grade bagged potting mix. The cheap soil is cheap for a reason — there’s nothing actually in it! Think of the potting mix as the food source of your plants. Fertilise each year with a bag of well-aged cow manure mixed through or a good-quality liquid fertiliser.

Protect from pests

If anyone has ever tried to grow food, they know that pests can be a constant pain. Avoid using harsh chemicals and stick to organic growing by sourcing a mesh canopy. Ideally, a tightly knit but permeable mesh like the Vegepod commercial-grade canopy is very effective in excluding big and small pests, and has a high sun rate.

What to grow?

Grow what you love to eat! Try one or two plants first if you’re a beginner to get used to the process. Otherwise there are your easy and crowd favourites like tommies, spinach, rocket, chillies and lettuce.

For more information, 

Vegepod 

The post Learn how to grow your own appeared first on Completehome.

We’re all guilty of it. Turning a blind eye to the peeling paint on the fence, the gutters sprouting sticks and leaves, or the hedge that is so unkempt and snaggly it’s starting to look rather sinister. After all, if it’s a sunny weekend, we have more enjoyable things to do than cleaning the gutters, and if it’s raining, well, best to stay inside all warm and snuggly. Delaying the chore of garden maintenance further.

Some outdoor chores are about aesthetics, some are about safety. Either way, they can’t be ignored forever because if you do, it could be at your own peril — and I can attest to that. Quite recently, ignoring an ever-growing mossy patch on the paving in my courtyard led to a rather ungainly slip and a hard, painful landing on the concrete. Once my full range of motion returned (and my dignity), cleaning the paving was first on my to-do list.

Deferring maintenance on your garden or anything outdoors may not always lead to danger, but once you do finally get around to doing what needs to be done, the tasks tend to be harder and take longer.

Accept the inevitable

“It seems that the days when spending a couple of hours pottering about in the garden was considered relaxing are becoming a thing of the past,” says Georgia Harper, landscape designer and founder of Georgia Harper Landscape Design. “With all of the pressures and distractions of modern life, many people are finding they have less time to spend in the garden than ever before. This is not to say that we don’t enjoy time spent in the garden; it’s just that most of us want this time to be about relaxing with a cool drink and a book rather than fertilising, pruning and pulling up weeds.

“The popularity of low-maintenance gardens has never been higher. And while there is no denying that more people are making the decision to go ‘low maintenance’, we need to ask ourselves, what does this really mean? In some people’s minds low maintenance means no maintenance, but is this realistic?

“The short answer is no. Every garden needs some degree of maintenance. The goal, then, is to create a garden that meets all of your needs while requiring the minimum effort to maintain it. As with anything worthwhile in life, effort is required — and a garden is no different. This is something you just have to accept, but with good planning and the right selection of plants and materials, it is possible to make any ongoing maintenance a lot easier.”

Happy plants

Just like us, when plants get stressed, they are more likely to get ill — and they’re more likely to struggle and waste resources. “The golden rule is to pick the right plants for the space,” says Georgia. “If a plant is right for the area it’s going into, it should require very little attention. Most plants need a lot of care only if they are under stress, which is usually caused by being placed in the wrong location — for example, a plant that requires sun being planted in the shade, and vice versa.

“Mulch is by far the very best tool to keep maintenance in any garden to a minimum. It means less watering, less weeding, and as it breaks down, mulch is an excellent soil conditioner for ongoing plant health. If you also ensure that the soil is properly prepared before any planting takes place, which might mean the addition of nutrients in the form of compost, then your plants will become established faster and be healthier, which means less ongoing care.

“There’s a multitude of irrigation systems on offer for the time-poor gardener, but drip line is the most water-efficient. By installing a drip-irrigation system under a layer of mulch (or a sub-surface system beneath an area of lawn), connecting it to your water supply and linking it all to a seven-day timer, you need never think about watering the garden ever again. Include a rain sensor that automatically switches the system off when it rains and you’ll be low maintenance and water-wise.”

Don’t fan the flames

In Australia, outdoor maintenance is not just about happy plants, it’s often about reducing the impact of bushfires. “There’s no way to entirely fire-proof your property, but property owners shouldn’t underestimate how much a good garden clean-up, prune and some clever plant choices can potentially make in reducing bushfire risks to your home,” says Matt Leacy, founding partner and principal designer of Landart. “As much as it may seem an obvious and tedious task, one of the best things you can do is to thoroughly prune and tidy up around your gardens and property. Clean gutters, especially if your house is surrounded by large trees. Also ensure all old dry leaves from autumn and winter are cleared out and away from your property and that dead branches are cut away and trees and other plants are trimmed right back away from your house.

“It’s useful to have at least some knowledge of how flammable the plants and trees are on your property. Trees that are known to ignite quickly include tea tree, Cyprus, pines, eucalypts and various other natives,” says Matt. “Obviously, if you have a beautiful, well-established eucalyptus tree, which is also an important wildlife habitat, you won’t want to remove it entirely. But you can prune back any deadwood and maintain it (check with your local council’s restrictions/guidelines first), as well as control what’s around it to reduce the associated fire risks.”

It’s not all play

Regular checks of swings, slides, cubby houses, tree houses, climbing frames and trampolines is important. Nails that have worked their way loose in a cubby can snag rompers and pierce delicate little fingers, while broken trampoline springs or missing safety padding can be a real hazard for kids of all ages.

“If you haven’t used your trampoline in a while, it is always a good idea to check it over — in fact you should inspect your trampoline before each use,” advises Shane Helm of Oz Trampolines. “Things to look out for include missing, faulty or improperly positioned safety padding; punctures, tears or holes in the safety net, tents, roof padding or mats; deterioration of the stitching or fabric of the mat or safety padding; broken or stretched springs and bent, uneven or unstable frames. If you notice any damage, change the parts immediately.”

You can prevent most of these things from happening with general, ongoing maintenance. “When your trampoline is not going to be used for an extended period of time, it is best to disassemble and store it in a safe, dry place,” continues Shane. “To protect your trampoline from foreign objects and to keep it clean, use a cover. When cleaning, especially mats and frame pads, don’t use aggressive cleaning products. Trampoline surfaces are best cleaned with mild soapy water and thoroughly rinsed with water afterward. For the best maintenance of your trampoline, also make sure no animals are allowed on the trampoline as they could damage both the frame pad and the jumping mat.”

Keep a solid footing

“Paving instead of garden beds (or lawn) might sound like a great idea, but it heats up, can get slippery and requires maintenance (sweeping and sealing) to keep it looking its best, so choose carefully. Plain, solid-coloured pavers show every mark and leaf drop, and you’ll be sweeping it often to keep it looking good. Natural stone’s irregularities disguise any marks, leaves or debris resting on the pavers and look nice with much less effort,” says Georgia.

“In damp, shady areas, decking may be the answer as it is elevated above ground level. This means rain, leaves and debris can pass through more easily. Of course, timber decking needs to be oiled and stained to prevent it from going grey. The other option might be one of the decking board alternatives made of recycled wood and plastic, which don’t require anything but the occasional wash or sweep.”

Leon Travis, general manager, sales and distribution for Boral Timber, says if you have timber decking, regular inspection and maintenance is recommended to ensure any splits, cracks or unpainted areas are attended to early on. “Any loose or damaged boards should be resecured or replaced, loose nails hammered back in or screws refixed,” he advises. “If the damage is extensive and boards or the entire deck needs replacing, Australian hardwood timber is an ideal choice as it can withstand harsh weather conditions, including rain, humidity, wind, salt and intense heat.”

Painting pointers

“Cleaning your home’s exterior will help maintain the appearance of your paint finish and remove the build-up of dirt, salt deposits, bird droppings, mould and other contaminants,” advises Erin Porter, Dulux category manager — Exterior & Speciality Coatings. “We recommend washing your painted exterior surfaces annually; not only will this maintain the life of the paint, it will also keep your home looking fresh. The best process for cleaning these surfaces without damaging the paint is by preparing a bucket of warm water mixed with a moderate amount of household detergent and apply to the painted area with a soft bristle brush, broom or soft cloth. Then, before your painted surface can dry, hose it down thoroughly with clean water.”

To reduce maintenance, choose the right paint to begin with and properly prepare the surfaces before painting. “Finding a paint that can withstand everything the Australian weather throws at it is very important, which is why we recommend using a high-quality acrylic exterior paint,” says Erin. “When painting the exterior of your home, preparation is the key to success. To start, make sure your surface is clean by thoroughly washing away any chalky residue, dirt, dust or mould from the surface, as the presence of contaminants can cause loss of adhesion to the new paint.

Using sandpaper to even out, smooth, degloss or remove existing paint from the surface is another crucial step in preparing for a quality finish.”

Do regular checks to see what needs work and get started on your garden maintenance — it’s always the better option.

The post There’s no time like the present to start your garden maintenance appeared first on Completehome.

1. Get your grass going

To get your grass going, get out in the garden and fork and aerate your lawn. In early spring, apply a weed killer to remove broadleaf weeds and those pesky bindii. Follow up a few weeks later with lawn fertiliser to keep the grass growing strong and prevent new weeds. The Beat A Weed Natural Weedkiller is a fact-acting weed killer made of natural actives. It works by dehydrating the unwanted plants, burning them from top to bottom.

2. Nourish your soil

Before the growing season commences, it’s important to give gardens a good dose of nutrition. The Black Marvel Garden Compost is a premium mix that will deliver amazing results fast. It is high in potash, which ensures plenty of colourful, healthy blooms as well as an abundance of vegetables and fruit. The added iron helps promote deep-green leaves, strong roots and healthy growth.

3. Grow your own — Plant straight in the Grow Bag

Spring is the best time to sow seed. You can grow best from seeds during this season and for maintenance, you do not require much work and can benefit from the sporadic prune post flowering. Richgro’s Tomato & Vegetable Grow Bag has all the key ingredients to help you grow your own tomatoes and vegetables such as cucumbers, capsicums, chillies, peas and beans, eggplants, herbs and salad greens. It is ideal for small spaces and raised garden beds. Plant seeds or seedlings directly into the 25L bag and watch them thrive.

4. Plant perennials

September is a good time to plant perennials. They have about 45 days to establish themselves in the ground during the spring season. This is the best time of the year to plant them, and you will also get them at the best price.

5. Get a garden shed and the right tools

It will not only act as an additional storage house for all your tools, but also add more value to your property. Outdoor sheds are the most sought-after storage options in Australia. The structure can store all your valuable items and will extend the life of your tools. Getting the right tools for the job will make the project you’re tackling easier, faster and better for the health of your plants.

6. Watch out for pests

As the weather warms up, aphids become active in the veggie patch or on the new growth of roses. Psyllids can also appear on the new growth of Lilly Pillies and need to be controlled to prevent them from spreading. Richgro’s Bug Killa can be used to keep psyllids and aphids at bay on your ornamental plants. For your edible plants, use Richgro Beat A Bug to keep them in check.

For more visit Richgro

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Sproutwell’s Garden Pro Range uses Sproutwell ‘Slide & Lock’ Assembly System, which has been designed to offer a more ‘wind resistant’ rigid and stable structure opposed to other conventional ‘slotted/u-channel design’ Greenhouses found in other models.

Fore more information

Sproutwell Greenhouses

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With so many of us becoming more space and time restricted with our properties, this incredibly realistic synthetic turf is the solution that does not compromise on the classic vision of the grassy backyard. So, if you’re umming and ahhing about whether to take the plunge to synthetic lawns, Nick can attest from personal experience, this product makes the decision very easy. Have a watch and learn about the benefits of this Gold Star, Green Product.

For more information

O’Shea Instagram
O’Shea Facebook
O’Shea Podcast Page
O’Shea Apple Podcast Channel
O’Shea Youtube Channel (Like and Subscribe!)

Also, see more at

Urban Turf Solutions

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1. Water world: pond plants

If you have a pond in your garden be sure to include a few different varieties of plants and fish. The more variety you have, the more complex and resilient the ecosystem will be, which means less maintenance for you. When it comes to plants, include both oxygenating varieties to clean the water and control algae, as well as floating plants, which provide shade and cooling to aquatic life. A diverse ecosystem will also ensure your fish have a much more interesting and natural experience.

2. Think outside the pot

Rather than spend money on fancy new planters, challenge yourself to make your own out of used household objects. Some great options include tea cups, glasses, lunchboxes, gumboots, tins, buckets, colanders, milk jugs, muffin tins, drawers, vases, tins and jars. If possible, use a drill to create drainage holes at the bottom of the container. If this is not possible, place a little gravel at the bottom of the object to ensure the plant doesn’t become waterlogged.

3. Sweet success

Do you have a sweet tooth? If so, try growing your own stevia plant, which has leaves up to 300 times sweeter than sugar (and it’s calorie free). Stevia plants can be found at specialist nurseries and thrive pretty much all over Australia, especially in warmer zones. To harvest, simply pick the leaves from the plant and dry them in the sun. Once crisp, grind them in a food processor or coffee grinder to make a powder, which can be used to sweeten tea and coffee or homemade recipes such as jam, cordial and desserts. While homegrown stevia is not quite as sweet as the store-bought variety, you’ll find the flavour much improved.

4. The good oils

If you have a garden filled with sweet-smelling botanicals, it’s worth making your own fragrant oils. Forget complex distilling and extracting equipment — you can make your batch of perfumed oil by combining bruised and torn botanicals with a light-scented carrier oil, such as olive oil, sweet almond oil or sunflower oil in a saucepan. Place the pan on the lowest heat setting (it should never boil) and leave to infuse for 4–8 hours until you are satisfied with the potency. Wonderful for home fragrances and natural remedies, some useful and beautiful oils include lavender, rosemary, tea-tree, geranium (see next issue for scented geranium feature), peppermint, eucalyptus and jasmine.

5. Get a wriggle on

A worm farm is a great way to recycle household waste and create a rich soil amendment for your garden. If you don’t already have a commercial worm farm, you can create your own from two stackable foam boxes. Styrofoam makes an excellent choice for worm farms as it’s light and portable, non-toxic and an excellent insulator. Use the bottom box to collect the worm juice and the top as a feeder box. Using a pen, make ventilation holes through the side of the top box and drainage holes through the floor. All that’s left to do now is to fill the top box with bedding, such as compost, mulch or soil, along with newspaper, organic kitchen scraps and your worms.

6. Tea time

Making a cup of tea from just-picked herbs is both wonderfully satisfying and cost-effective. Some of the most popular plants for tea-making include peppermint, spearmint, lemon balm, rose, bergamot, fennel, chamomile, rosemary and lavender. For fresh tea, simply tear up the leaves and steep in hot water. For year-round use, wash your herbs and dry them out on trays in the sun. Have a go experimenting with different varieties — you may even discover your own special blend.

7. Ready to rock

More than just a decorative feature, rockeries have many benefits in the backyard. They make a great habitat for native wildlife such as lizards, frogs and butterflies, plus they can also be used to create microclimates and shade. Rocky areas trap heat during the day and radiate it out at night, which warms nearby plants that can’t handle the cold. A stack of rocks can also be used to diffuse an overflow of water or create a barrier against whipping winds.

8. Room for mushrooms

If you live in a small space, have a go at growing mushrooms. Oyster mushrooms are one of the easiest varieties to fruit indoors and are perfect for the novice cultivator looking for high yields. To grow your own, take a lidded bucket and drill 12mm holes evenly around the sides 10–15cm apart. Fill the bucket with used coffee grounds and oyster mushroom spawn. Ask around, as many local cafes are happy to donate spent coffee grounds. Close the lid and transfer the bucket to a humid location, such as the bathroom. If anyone in your family seems unenthused by this idea, just wait until they see the flushes of mushrooms springing out from all sides of the bucket. They’ll come round in the end.

9. Good morning

If you have to choose between planting in a part of the garden that receives morning sun or one that gets afternoon sun, always choose morning sun. Morning sun gives your garden cool morning light that wakes plants up and gets them growing, while afternoon sun gives off a baking heat that can fry and stress your plants.

10. Plight of the bumblebee

In recent years disease, habitat loss and pesticide use have contributed to bee populations worldwide taking a nosedive. This is particularly alarming news, considering bees pollinate most of our food crops. One of the best ways you can help is to set up a beehive in your backyard or balcony. Otherwise, make your garden more bee-friendly by planting a smorgasbord of their favourite foods, such as bottlebrush, grevillea, lavender, thyme, foxglove and sunflower.

Written by Erina Starkey
Originally in Good Organic Gardening, Volume 7 Issue 6

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